compatibilité lames xj

[tristanlcf]

sinon comment se faire des noeud au cerveau pour que dalle .

[Bebop]

sinon comment se faire des noeud au cerveau pour que dalle .

heu.. non

Un pont AR solide ça vaut le coup... Parce que le dana 35...

[tristanlcf]

oui je suis d accord avec toi mais sa fait cher la modif si tu as na pas specialement besoin de cette modif

si c'est pour dire que on n a un 44 a l arriere

[Bebop]

y'en a qui peuvent en avoir l'utilité

[reivax22]

1° mettre le XJ sur un trourne broche pour faire les soudures nickelles (parceque les types qui font des soudures "au plafond" , ça court pas les rues)
2° achat du pont dana44
3° confection des tirants
4° achat des suspensions (ressort-amorto)
5° adaptation de l'arbre de transmission
6° renfort de la caisse-chassis
7° adaptation des freins , répartiteur , maitre cylindre


Bon le calcul financier est vite fait , t'as de quoi changer un paquet d'arbre de roue sur ton Dana35 , et vu que bien énervé , en ayant calculer ton coup , ça prend 1/2 heure ....
Ou alors tu trouves direct un ZJ en 4l , parceque finalement c'est ce que tu cherches à avoir.
Prendre en compte , que pendant la modif , tu roules pas avec les copaings , et que si ça dure (6 mois) , ça dévie très rapidement (si tu baisses les bras) sur les projets qui n'aboutissent jamais , avec une épave inexploitable , un gouffre financier.

Reste l'envie de la modif , et là je dis oui

[Bebop]

carrément vrai (et j'en sais quelquechose en matière de pots de fleurs qui servent à rien )

Par contre monter un D44 alu sur un XJ à l'ar en gardant les lames ça prend une aprem... Et t'as un pont bien plus solide ensuite...

[greg 74]

carrément vrai (et j'en sais quelquechose en matière de pots de fleurs qui servent à rien )

Par contre monter un D44 alu sur un XJ à l'ar en gardant les lames ça prend une aprem... Et t'as un pont bien plus solide ensuite...

je croyais le d44 alu ,tres fragile au niveau de sa structure (pas son interieur) ???


greg

[Bebop]

c'est plus fragile qu'un D44 acier...

Mais ça reste mieux qu'un D35 de toutes façon...

[greg 74]

c'est plus fragile qu'un D44 acier...

Mais ça reste mieux qu'un D35 de toutes façon...

y pas de mal

a tout hasard tu n aurais pas un lien ou on aurait toutes les compatiblites des ponts entre zj , xj , wj avec les rapports ?????


on sait qu un pont avant de wj ne va pas sur un zj mais pour le pont de xj in y pas une histoire de ho/pas ho







pour ceux que ceux que ca interesse voila une liste de compatibilite recuperer sur la toile



Suspension & Lift:
1. ZJ V8 Upcountry Coils = 1-1.5" lift
2. F-150/Bronco Coils ('79-ish) = 4-4.5" lift
3. S10 leaf packs (cut eyes off S10 main and bolt pack under XJ main) = 3-4" lift
4. Dakota Bastard Pack (do same as with S10 pack) = ~4" lift
5. JK shocks = slight mod to fit 2-4" lift
6. MJ Shackles = 1/2" lift
7. Camaro Spring Isolators = 1.5" lift

Brakes:
1. WJ brake booster
2. WJ Master Cylinder
3. YJ Brake Lines = 3-4" longer
4. Dodge Ram Van Brake Lines = 10-12" longer (for big lifts)
5. WJ Rotors/Calipers = bigger brakes and more stopping power (will fit 15" rims)WJ brakes are 5 on 5 bolt pattern. XJs are 5 on 4.5.
6. ZJ brake booster and master cylinder

Axles:
1. Ford 8.8 inch ('97+) = need spring & shock mounts (4.10, LSD, Disc Brakes)
2. XJ I-4 & V6 = 4.10 gears (some have 4.56) may have vacuum discos Stock 4.56 gearing in the XJ is the "unicorn gear ratio. It is rumored to exist but I have never heard of anyone actually seeing one.
3. 97+ XJ C8.25 = bolt in and upgrades to 29 spline (strength comparable to D44) 29 Spline can also be found in some VERY late production 96 models, Chrysler ran out of 27 spline 8.25s and started using the 29 spline models. No documentation is known as to when the change took place but so far has only been found in 96 XJs produced within the last couple of weeks of that year model. Only way to tell for sure is to p[ull the axle and count the splines.
4. XJ D44 = found in some but not all '87-'89 XJ's with Towing Package
5. Older XJs with the vacuum disconnect front axle can be upgraded with the late model shafts. 84-91 some axles have the vac disco on the passenger side with the NP231 tcase, the NP 242 tcase has the one piece passenger side shaft. Early models can also benefit from the later model shaft with the larger ujoint. 84-88 used the 260 ujoint, 89 94 non ABS used the 260 ujoint, 89-94 with ABS used the larger and stronger 297 ujoint, all 95-01 used the 297 ujoint. The 2 piece to 1 piece conversion requires the installtion of a new seal in the axle tube.

Front End & Steering:
1. ZJ V8 Tierods = beefier & bolt in
2. WJ Knuckles/Tierods/Draglinks = beefier and crossover steering
3. Durango Steering Box = beefier
4. 350 or 351 Power Steering Pump = helps with oversize tires (requires welding)
5. WJ LCA's = more tire clearance (some grinding required)
6. ZJ pitman arm = 1 inch drop over stock
7. WJ rear LCA's = replace XJ front LCA's, 2" longer to accommodate a lift, some grinding required

Engine Performance:
1. Newer XJ intakes (may require some modification) 99-01 was redesigned for better flow and efficiency. Not as effective on the Renix era XJs due to the change in the shape of the intake and exhaust ports on the head. Renix heads and H.O. intakes do not flow well together and vice versa. Yes they will work but the engine efficiency and fuel economy will sufffer from the airflow restrictions.
2. Mustang 5.0 Injectors = bolt in (have 4 holes instead of 1, more fuel, better spray) Mustang injectors are better suited for the 4.0 when it is stroked and needs a little more fuel pressure. For a stock engine the Chrysler 703 and 784 injectors will work better. Commonly found in the Neon, Cirrus, and Stratus they offer the same 1 spray hole to 4 spray holes upgrade and have the same fuel pressure rating as the stock XJ injector. Plus they are much easier to find in the junkyard. the 703 is for the 91-97 models and the 784 is for the 98-01s.
3. ZJ V8 alternator = more power to run accessories (some grinding required) 136A
4. Ford Electric Fan ('90-95 3.8L Taurus, '87-93 5.0L Mustang) = replaces mechanical fan, more cooling (8C607)
5. 2.5L Dakota Alternator = bolt in, upgrades to 117A

Other:
1. '94+ V6 Dakota AX-15 = bolt in (but must use XJ bellhousing)
2. Lebaron or laser hood vents = help keep ur 4.0 cool
3. 97+ mirrors are direct bolt in to older XJ's and allow you to fold them in on tight trails.
4. MJ Bucket seats = tilt forward, bolt in to at least older XJ's
5. ZJ gas tank skid = can be modified to fit 97+
6. ZJ and WJ stock tranny coolers with stacked plates (even an upgrade for us with the stock fin style)
7. GM power antennas replace your broken XJ's with little modification
8. 5spd crossmembers give 3/4 inch tcase drop on autos with no loss in ground clearance
9. You can convert the closed system to open without replacing your radiator by using the fill cap from a 4.7 durango or dakota, cutting it into your upper hose, and replace your bottle with an Mj overflow tank or any that fit. Then cap off or eliminate the T'ed lines in the heater core.
10. XJ '97+ doors onto older cherokees = one piece windows and better mirrors Later model doors (97-01) do not work on older XJs due to a change in the hinge design without some heavy mods to the hinges.
11. XJ overhead console = most commonly found in '00-01, provides space for switches etc.
12. '97+ center console = can be made to fit '96 and older, gives you cupholders!
13. ZJ front seats are a direct bolt in swap for the 95 and up XJ for a more confortable ride. 94 and older has a different style seat mount but the ZJ seats will work with some modification and a little bracket fabrication.
14. 84-94 stock XJ seats are prone to breaking on the drivers side from years of climbong in and out. The seat pan itself is formed from thin aluminum and does not have the durability it needs. Thus causing the "gansta lean" on the drivers side seat. The passenger side bottom seat cushion is exactly the same and will swap with just a handful of bolts to undo and replace. If the seat color is different, the cover from your original seat can be swapped with just a few minutes and a few screws while you have it apart.

[reivax22]

Pour le pot de fleur , j'ai aussi , mais pas 4x4 , j'y réfléchi à 2 fois avant d'entamer du "lourd" , sinon c'est la porte ouverte à toutes les fenêtres*

Par contre monter un D44 alu sur un XJ à l'ar en gardant les lames ça prend une aprem...

ben justement , juste le corps de diff en fonte d'alu ou aussi les tubes ?
Parceque sinon pour souder les supports de lames

pour ceux que ceux que ca interesse voila une liste de compatibilite recuperer sur la toile
Brakes:
1. WJ brake booster
2. WJ Master Cylinder
3. YJ Brake Lines = 3-4" longer
4. Dodge Ram Van Brake Lines = 10-12" longer (for big lifts)
5. WJ Rotors/Calipers = bigger brakes and more stopping power (will fit 15" rims)WJ brakes are 5 on 5 bolt pattern. XJs are 5 on 4.5.
6. ZJ brake booster and master cylinder

Compatible sur XJ ?




* Gad Elmaleh inside